Lepushë and Vermosh: a canyon view that not everyone knows yet
The drive from Shkodër to the northernmost tip of Albania. Hairpins above the Cem river canyon, pools of crystal clear water and mountain pastures without the Theth crowds.
Everyone goes to Theth these days. Hardly anyone goes to Lepushë and Vermosh yet. We drove the road for the first time at the start of October 2026 and the view into the canyon won us over. Next year we are coming back, this time with the kids.
Where it is
Lepushë and Vermosh are villages in the Kelmend region, in the northernmost corner of Albania on the border with Montenegro. From Shkodër you drive north through Koplik towards the Hani i Hotit border crossing and turn off into the mountains just before it. Allow roughly two hours of driving each way to Lepushë, without stops. And you will stop.
The viewpoint above the canyon
The road first climbs to a pass, and then the canyon of the Cem river opens up in front of you. On maps the spot is marked as View Point of Valley (Kastrat, Malësi e Madhe district). There is a car park, a stone monument and a coffee stall.
Below the viewpoint the road drops in hairpins to the valley floor. From above it looks like a ribbon laid across the slope. It is one of the most beautiful views we have seen in Albania, and yet you can drive right up to it on tarmac.
The valley floor: the river and its pools
Down below, the road follows the river. The water is crystal clear with a green tint, and it forms pools among the rocks. At the start of October there was less water flowing through them, but they were calm and you could see right to the bottom.
You can swim. The water is cold, so it is more of a quick dip than a long swim.
Where the river drops into the gorge, keep well back from the edge. The rocks are smooth and do not expect any railings.
Lepushë and Vermosh
Higher up, the valley opens into pastures. Sheep, scattered houses, beech forests and rocky ridges above it all. In autumn the forests change colour, and apart from a few motorcyclists and locals you will meet almost no one.
People do not come here for attractions. They come for the silence, a short walk and lunch at one of the guesthouses. Check in advance whether the guesthouses are open outside summer, as not all of them are in autumn.
Practical information
- A car is essential. Without one there is no sensible way to get here on a day trip.
- The road is tarmac, but narrow and full of bends. Drive slowly and expect livestock on the road.
- Time: this is a full day trip. Set off in the morning so that you are not coming back down the hairpins in the dark.
- Fuel and cash: sort both out in Shkodër or Koplik. In the mountains you pay in lekë, and do not count on finding an ATM.
- Weather: go on a clear day, for the views. In winter the area is often hard to reach because of snow.
- With kids: the hairpins are tough on the stomach, so plan stops. Do not let children out of your sight near the pools and gorges.
Lepushë or Theth
| Lepushë and Vermosh | Theth | |
|---|---|---|
| How busy | few people | very busy in season |
| Main experience | the drive, the canyon, the pastures | the village, the waterfall, the Blue Eye |
| Effort | driving, short walks | longer hikes |
One does not replace the other. If you have already been to Theth, or the crowds put you off, Lepushë is a good choice. How to get to Theth is described in Theth from Shkodër as a base, and an overview of the whole region is in The Albanian Alps.
How it fits into your stay
We did this trip as part of a long weekend, see A long weekend in Albania. In the evening you are back in Shkodër for dinner and bed. Have a look at the apartment and availability.