Northern Albania in a week from Shkodër: a day by day itinerary

Northern Albania can be covered in a week without changing accommodation every night. Shkodër sits exactly where the roads to the mountains, the lake and the sea meet, so most trips can be done as day trips with an evening back home. Here is a plan we have refined with our guests.

Why a single base

Most northern Albania itineraries have you moving every other day. It can be done differently: from Shkodër you can day trip to Komani Lake, the Shala river, Lake Skadar and the sea, and only once head into the mountains for two nights for the crossing to Valbona. You save packing, transfers and money on accommodation.

Day 1: arrival and Shkodër

Fly into Tirana, transfer to Shkodër (bus, shuttle or an arranged driver, details in From Tirana to Shkodër). The afternoon is enough for Rozafa castle above the meeting of three rivers and the evening promenade on Rruga Kolë Idromeno.

Day 2: Komani Lake

A full day on the Koman to Fierza ferry. Leave around half past six, the boat sails at nine, back in the afternoon. Exact times and prices are in our Komani Lake guide. It is the most photogenic day of the week.

Day 3: the Shala river

A turquoise river reachable only by boat. The trip can be bought as a full day package with pick up in Shkodër. Details in the article on the Shala river. If you want a slow day, this one can be swapped for a rest or a bike ride.

Days 4 to 6: Theth and the crossing to Valbona

The only part where sleeping elsewhere genuinely pays off.

• Day 4: morning furgon from Shkodër to Theth, an easy afternoon walk to the Grunas waterfall or the Blue Eye, night at a guesthouse.
• Day 5: the crossing over the pass to Valbona, 17 km and 6 to 9 hours. Everything you need is in the Valbona to Theth hike.
• Day 6: minibus from Valbona to Fierza, ferry across Komani Lake and a transfer back to Shkodër.

If you would rather not sleep in the mountains or you travel with small children, days 4 to 6 can be replaced by a single day trip to Theth and two calmer days by the water. What works with children is covered in Shkodër with kids.

Day 7: Lake Skadar or the sea

A choice for the last day. Either Lake Skadar, reachable by bike (practical tips here), or the sea: Rrjolli beach is about 40 minutes by car and makes a quiet finish.

If you have a spare day or want something different, these all work from Shkodër without a car:

• By bike to the lake: along the shore of Lake Skadar to the village of Shiroka and on towards Zogaj. The route is flat and peaceful, right by the water between green hills, with plenty of places to stop for lunch or coffee by the lake.
• By bike to the Mes bridge and the canyon: out to the Ottoman stone bridge at Mes and then further upstream along the Kir river towards Prekal. The road winds through a lush valley with crystal clear turquoise water.
• By minibus to the sea at Velipojë: regular minibuses run from Shkodër straight down to Velipojë, with wide sandy beaches, coastal lagoons and pine groves.
• A hop into Montenegro: the Muriqan to Sukobin crossing is 20 to 30 minutes from Shkodër. Buses run to Ulcinj and Podgorica, a taxi is not expensive, and Ulcinj or Stari Bar fit into a single day.

What it costs

A rough per person estimate, excluding accommodation and flights:

• Komani Lake ferry: 9 to 10 EUR one way
• Shala river trip: from 25 EUR
• Furgon Shkodër to Theth: about 12 EUR
• Minibus Valbona to Fierza: 8 to 10 EUR
• Mountain guesthouse: from about 20 EUR with breakfast
• Food: 5 to 10 EUR for lunch or dinner

When to go

June and September are the best compromise: the mountains are passable, the water is swimmable and it is not as crowded as July and August. May and October are quiet and cheaper, but the crossing to Valbona may not be walkable and the ferry only runs in season, from 15 April to 5 November.

One note on money: the Albanian lek has been strengthening for years, a euro now buys around 94 lekë against roughly 140 a decade ago. In euro terms Albania gets more expensive every year. The sooner you go, the cheaper it is.

And a more practical note: the real rate is about 95 lekë to the euro, but some places will count it as 90. Withdraw one larger amount in lekë from an ATM as soon as you arrive. Cards work in the better restaurants, but markets and small shops need cash, and they are usually markedly cheaper.

Where to stay

Our apartment in Shkodër is built for exactly this itinerary: walking distance from the centre, free bikes, parking at the door, and you can leave your big bag with us when you head into the mountains for two days. Have a look at availability.